Unmissable experiences in Eswatini recommended by Lonely Planet’s experts include:
• Watching a crash of almost a dozen wild rhino bathe, lounge and drink at one of the many secluded waterholes within Mkhaya Game Reserve
• Spotting zebra, eland, wildebeest, warthog and more while on a short stroll, day hike or challenging multi-day trek in the rough mountain terrain of Malolotja Nature Reserve
• Observing one of the continent’s greatest cultural events, the Umhlanga Dance Festival, which is held at the usually off-limits Ludzidzini Royal Residence near Lobamba
Lonely Planet’s VP of Experience, Tom Hall, said: “Eswatini offers mind-blowing wildlife watching, stunning scenery, adrenaline-boosting activities and colourful traditions, yet it has remained relatively undiscovered…experience the wonder of Eswatini ahead of the crowds, as a new international airport and improved infrastructure make the country more accessible.”
Lonely Planet’s editorial continued: “Eswatini features fifth in (this edition’s) list of top countries, which is hardly surprising when the country has so much to offer. As one of the last monarchies remaining in the whole of Africa, the traditions that originate from centuries ago continue within this laid-back nation. Group Editor of Lonely Planet Magazines, Peter Grunert, recently travelled to Eswatini for six days and his trip was packed full of some of the country’s must-see attractions. As well as staying at a community-run camp in the remote Lubombo Mountains and experiencing rural life and traditions in Eswatini, Peter also spent time at all three of the country’s Big Game Parks, including the famed Mkhaya, known for offering some of the best rhino experiences in Africa. The full details of this trip will be revealed in the next edition of the Lonely Planet Magazine in a ‘gigantic extravaganza of a feature’, so make sure you pick up a copy!”
Reactions
• Eswatini Tourism Authority (ETA) representative, Kelly White, said: “As an underrated yet up and-coming African country, it’s an honour to have Eswatini named as one of the world’s top countries for travellers and for it to be featured in Lonely Planet. This is an accolade that the country truly deserves, and we’re confident it will encourage more people to visit in the coming years.”
• Prime Minister Dlamini announced that “We will be leveraging on our selection as a top five destination to visit in the world by Lonely Planet through an intensified marketing programme. Eswatini is scheduled to exhibit at the Dubai Expo that will bring together millions of people from around the world to sample tourism products from the 100-plus countries that will participate”.
• Finance Minister Rijkenberg said that in order to build on what he called “significant progress” made by the tourism industry, government will review the Tourism Bill in an exercise that intends to create an even more enabling environment for the tourism sector to thrive.
WILDLIFE & SURROUNDS
Eswatini’s rich variety of landscapes and habitats gives it a profusion of fauna and flora: the number of species is impressive by any standard. The country offers 17 protected areas that are home to a very wide range of animals, including the sought-after ‘Big 5’, and is one of the best places on the continent for rhino experiences. The latter include tracking on foot as well as viewing by 4×4, and the chance to see both black and white rhino. Eswatini is also the perfect place to encounter many of the smaller yet also fascinating creatures that receive less attention elsewhere. The kingdom is furthermore a birdwatcher’s paradise, with some 500 species recorded in the country, and thanks to its varied landscapes and wilderness areas, flora include over 3 500 indigenous species, about 25 of which are endemic.
With the exception of desert and beach, every geographical feature of Africa’s terrain is found within Eswatini:
• magnificent mountain scenery with rivers, waterfalls and gorges
• unique rock formations which are among the world’s most ancient
• lush and fertile valleys
• typical African bush
From west to east, Eswatini moves from mountainous Highveld through Middleveld to Lowveld, then rises again to the Lubombo Mountains. Altitudes range from 21m to 1 800m (70ft to
6 000 ft), yet the country’s east and west borders are less than 200 km (125 miles) apart. The Highveld is a land of hills, waterfalls and great buttresses of ancient rock – the country’s most dramatic and impressive landscapes – while the Middleveld is an area of undulating bush and moist savannah, and the Lowveld is hot, bush country that harbours Eswatini’s major game reserves and offers easy access to areas of genuine wilderness.
Big Game Parks (BGP) – the globally renowned leading light in Africa’s war against the poaching of rhino and elephant – is a non-profit trust and the life work of pioneering conservationist, Ted Reilly. Born in Mlilwane in 1938, he was profoundly affected by witnessing the kingdom’s wildlife reduced to the verge of extinction before his 21st birthday: using limited personal resources and displaying absolute dedication, he consequently turned the family’s highly productive 460 ha farm into a sanctuary. Once Reilly’s fledgling operation was under way, he approached King Sobhuza II for game, and that was the beginning of a long and close personal association with the monarchy.
Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary was opened to the public on 12 July 1964, and 14 years later proclaimed a Nature Reserve. It is thus the kingdom’s longest-established reserve and, as its 4 450 ha are situated almost alongside the Mbabane-Manzini highway, is the park most frequented by visitors on shorter stays. A blend of forested mountain slopes and open grasslands provides excellent photo-ops of giraffe, zebra, antelope, small predators and birdlife, including different species of wild fowl. Most-photographed, perhaps, are the enormous crocodiles that bask atop the small islands that dot Mlilwane’s watering-holes. Chubeka Trails is an opportunity to explore these delights on horseback, while guided walks are also on offer. The sanctuary’s restaurant and tavern straddle a hippo pool and are well patronised by locals and visitors alike. The choice of accommodation includes Reilly’s Rock Hilltop Lodge, Sondzela Backpackers and a campsite: the latter comprises 20 individual, level sites, each with a dedicated barbeque stand and electricity points, and some with a shared water-source.
Hlane Royal National Park in the country’s northeast occupies the area that was historically a hunting ground enjoyed by the monarchy and named by King Sobhuza II. It was from here that the latter sourced game for Ted Reilly’s Mlilwane project, and is today held in trust for the nation by His Majesty King Mswati III. Hlane is strategically ideal for visitors on the much-frequented Kruger National Park–Eswatini–Maputo route. The vast, predominantly flat reserve is dotted with large, shallow pans and thousand-year-old hardwood conservancies, and has for the past three decades been the focal point of concerted species-reintroduction. It boasts the kingdom’s most extensive game herds and largest numbers of Southern Africa’s fabled birds of prey, all viewed in comfort and safety from well-maintained roads.
Mkhaya Game Reserve was established in 1979 when Reilly decided it was the ideal place of refuge for endangered species, starting with the pure breed of cattle that had accompanied Nguni-speaking tribes on their exodus from Central Africa. Reilly then expanded his vision to include many wild animals, and Mkhaya subsequently evolved into a world-renowned centre of conservation for elephant, buffalo, black and white rhino plus several variants of antelope – yet another of Eswatini’s success stories in sustainable land use and the protection of endangered species. Visitors are escorted by wildlife personnel aboard customised game-viewing vehicles.
HERITAGE-GUARDIAN
The Eswatini National Trust Commission (ENTC) proclaims and manages national parks and reserves, museums and monuments, and is responsible for the National Environmental Education Programme. Ecotourism is an important component of ENTC activities and through which it contributes significantly to the country’s overall tourism economy. The parastatal entity also partners with peer bodies in South Africa and Mozambique under the Lubombo Trans-Frontier Conservation Area in a spatial development initiative that promotes trans-boundary conservation and economic development. As an official declaration reads, “It is important to ensure that all ENTC activities have a minimum negative impact on the long-term conservation of the kingdom’s natural and cultural heritage, as the organization has a vital role to play in enhancing the quality of life in Eswatini for future generations. The ENTC’s responsibilities are on a national level and are not restricted to existing ENTC-managed areas.” The latter comprise:
• Mlawula Nature Reserve in the kingdom’s eastern reaches forms part of the Eswatini-Mozambique South Africa Lubombo Trans-Frontier Conservation and Resource Area that was promulgated in June 2000. The reserve’s 16 500 ha encompass transitional landscapes between dry savannas and moist coastal thickets, thereby incorporating distinct ecological zones – mountain ridge, valley and plateau.
Mlawula’s northern boundary is marked by the perennial Mbuluzi River which is fed by the steep forested ravines that dissect the Lubombo plateau. Locally unique and picturesque are the rain-filled seasonal pans that occur along the plateau’s higher reaches. Mlawula offers accommodation in the Magadzavane, which is a 40-bed lodge with furnished en-suite units, restaurant, bar, conference centre and pool. The complex was opened in March 2012 and is supplemented by a Sara tented camp and a spacious main camp for tents and caravans. Road access has been significantly improved, funded by the Republic of China-Taiwan.
• Malolotsha Nature Reserve on the kingdom’s northwest flank stretches from the historic iron ore mine at Ngwenya almost as far as Pigg’s Peak, and boasts the country’s highest waterfall among mountain scenery regarded by many as Southern Africa’s answer to the Alps. A vast array of habitats can be enjoyed via extensive trails – up to weeklong hikes – or joining a Treetop Canopy Tour and gliding though the forests’ upper reaches to catch sight of striking rock formations and towering cliff faces. Malolotja’s flora is widely varied – the wildflowers in spring are particularly famous – while the lists of birds and mammals each contain an impressive number of rarities. Accommodation in this, one of the kingdom’s most popular nature reserves, is a choice between log cabins and a campsite.
• Mantenga Nature Reserve is 725 ha of Middle- and Highveld habitat in a secluded corner of the Ezulwini Valley. Its southern boundary is formed by the bilharzia-free Little Usuthu River and the 95-metres-high Mantenga Falls which is Eswatini’s best-known and largest water-volume cascade. Swimming and picnicking are popular adjuncts to birdwatching and photographing the many variants of small and medium-size animals that abound. The Swati Cultural Village is an excellent working reconstruction of a traditional homestead from around the 1850s: it provides the visitor with an opportunity to experience all the complexities and nuances of traditional Swati life.
The venue’s schedule of events includes spectacular performances by a dance troupe which has gained international renown through tours around the world. Accommodation is available in the form of luxury chalets with all modern features such as high-speed internet access and 3-D/HD-compatible TV.
• National Museum, King Sobhuza II Memorial Park, Houses of Parliament and Ludzidzini Royal Settlement, all of which are to be found in the kingdom’s spiritual heart-centre of Lobamba on the edge of Ezulwini Valley.
Ludzidzini encompasses the Queen Mother’s kraal and is ringed by the plains on which the nation gathers for the earlier-detailed, annual Incwala and Umhlanga celebrations. With the Mdzimba Mountains as its backdrop, this area has been playing host to Eswatini’s royalty for over two centuries.
It is said that there is no better way to explore the kingdom’s multi-varied terrain than on foot, and the nature reserves are well known for their excellent range of self-guided hiking trails that offer visitors the opportunity to dictate the pace best suited to their group. Paths and trails in many locations across the country facilitate hikes ranging in duration from a couple of hours to many days, and give access to places and views that vehicles cannot reach. Alternatively, anyone with initiative and a good map or GPS can simply head off into countryside. Yet another option is the list of accredited, reputable, specialist adventure/hiking-tour operators.
Exploring on horseback offers perhaps even greater freedom than on foot, and those in the know say that views always seem to be more spectacular when seen from the back of a horse. Eswatini offers visitors the opportunity to discover its natural beauty by traversing any of a number of horse-riding trails and, again, duration can vary between a couple of hours and a number of days, depending on experience and ability. The main stables all have good facilities, cater to all levels, and are found at Mlilwane, Ezulwini Valley, Mhlambanyatsi, Hawane Resort and Malkerns.
For the even more adventurous, Malolotja Nature Reserve is home to a thrilling tree-top canopy tour of zip-wires, bridges and platforms, while various mountains and gorges provide opportunities for climbing and abseiling. Moving underground, a local adventure operator has pioneered adventure-caving in Southern Africa’s only major granite cave-system. On the other hand, a high-speed, ‘wet ‘n’ wild’ adventure lies in wait on the Great Usuthu River, where it is said that Eswatini’s white-water rafting is among the most thrilling anywhere.
CULTURAL FESTIVITIES
The Kingdom of Eswatini proudly embraces and upholds its unique, ancient traditions: both the monarchy and the people actively maintain and preserve their distinctive cultural heritage with a devotion that that is probably unmatched anywhere in Africa. Visitors can get a better idea of traditional African culture here than perhaps anywhere else in the region, and what is seen, including spectacular festivals, has not simply been resuscitated for the tourist dollar, but is authentic. And while the deeply significant Umhlanga and Incwala – traditional ceremonies that involve tens of thousands of Emaswati and which attract visitors from all over the world – are detailed in Introduction, as is the more frolicsome Buganu, traditional attire, ceremonies and dancing are to be found throughout the country at all times of the year.
The kingdom is however also a thoroughly modern, sophisticated country, sharing with the rest of the world a 21st century culture of music, dance, theatre and the arts that ‘trend’ on social media. Festivals of this ilk are growing steadily in both number and size.
Tourist Magnet
The annual MTN Bushfire festival of music, arts and environmental consciousness, usually slated for the last weekend in May, has become so popular as to witness over 26 000 attendees from 60 countries around the globe journey to the peaceful Malkerns Valley of Eswatini for an energising and uplifting celebration of African creativity. Winner of the African Responsible Tourism Awards’ Best Sustainable Event category, hailed by CNN as one of the “7 African music festivals you really have to see”, and listed by the BBC as a “Top African Festival”, MTN Bushfire is described by its organizers as “more than a festival, it’s a living, breathing ecosystem deeply rooted in African soil, yet inclusive and welcoming to international guests.
“This uniquely African yet globally infused experience embraces thousands in an atmosphere of tolerance and passionate commitment to music, the arts and the environment. With its clarion call to ignite action for social change, MTN Bushfire has always been committed to working with and uplifting the Swati community. Over the past decade, MTN Bushfire has continually brought its fire with a significant percentage of profits supporting local charities including Young Heroes, which is an initiative that supports over 1 000 AIDS orphans. MTN Bushfire invites all fans of music, the arts, cultural exploration and environmental sustainability, to become part of the thriving community that is MTN Bushfire.”
Importance
The most recent edition attracted just over 30 000 attendees, for whose pleasure a total of 294 artists from across the African diaspora performed in the four stage areas. To evince one aspect of the event’s value to the kingdom’s economy, between the Friday afternoon and Sunday night finale, accredited traders within the festival site generated E4.5-million turnover from their wide spectrum of offerings. These calculations were made by the Bushfire team together with South African Cultural Observatory, which is an international company that calculates festivals’ economic impact.
It was also reported that more than 700 Emaswati were employed by the festival, carrying out duties that ranged from cleaning to security and clerical. To paraphrase its manifesto: “More than simply a music festival, MTN Bushfire curates inspired environments where people from all walks of life collectively come to ignite their flame. Through its range of experiential platforms, the festival offers a diverse and authentic experience with a laid-back atmosphere.”
Culinary-centred
Standard Bank Luju Food and Lifestyle Festival’s sophomore edition clearly evinced that the “sensory experience unlike any other” is worth its salt. Over 6 000 attendees converged on the lavish lawns of the House on Fire Sculpture Garden for this unique celebration of the tastes, sounds, sights and aromas of Eswatini and the Southern African region. Among the seven culinary programme showcases was the masterclass presented by Siba Mtongana who hosts the acclaimed TV show, ‘Cooking with Siba’, while aural entertainment was delivered by13 recording artists from the kingdom and neighbouring states. The festival also celebrates the dynamic textures, striking prints and vivid colours that the continent has to offer, so its carefully curated and authentically African programme accordingly features high-end African fashion and visual arts.
The sophomore event’s theme – ‘A Return to the African Future’ – was carried through to the Design Café which is described as “a space that takes you on a journey of celebration through sculpture and design works”. All elements were conceptualised and infused with simple materials that preserve Eswatini culture and embrace the environment. A major development of the festival’s second edition was the option for partygoers to overnight within the House on Fire grounds, thanks to a state-of-the-art glamping site complete with en-suite hot showers and toilets to complete the home-away-from-home ambience.
To show that the Standard Bank Luju Food and Lifestyle Festival is already playing an important role in the country’s economy, House on Fire Marketing Manager, Bongani Dlamini, disclosed at the After-Buzz review and media conference that more than E1-million revenue was generated by the 20 accredited traders who plied their wares at the second edition.
Loud & Proud
Riders Ranch in Sidvokodvo has in the last weekend of August for each of the past 30 years hosted the Swati Rally for devotees of ‘petrol-sports’ – initially high-powered motorcycles, but recently expanded to include cars. The former remain predominant, however, and the event’s popularity has grown to the point where some 10 000 bikers arrive from South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Lesotho and Mozambique to join the Swati contingent in a time-honoured routine: dance through Friday night to live bands and tunes spun by local and South African DJs, a mass-rally on Saturday morning traversing the kingdom’s scenic routes, back to Riders Ranch for an afternoon and early evening of tyre-shredding, daredevil exhibitions and contests, party through the night, and on Sunday take a favourite route one last time before heading home.
Rally founder, Carlos Paiva, is proud to point out that the gathering plays its part in boosting Eswatini’s economy through tourism, to the tune of more than E30-million annually into the accommodation and catering sectors, among others. The organization also spearheads community-upliftment initiatives in and around Sidvokodvo. He expresses appreciation for the support of the nation which has helped the rally gain continuous momentum, and declares that its massive impact on tourism is also largely due to vehicle-financing institution, FNB/WesBank, which sponsors the major prize and provides speed-points and a temporary ATM to help elevate service delivery to international standards.
Eswatini Arts and Music Association praises the rally for its many years of providing significant support to and exposure of local musicians, while Eswatini Tourism Authority annually sets up traditional village structures at the site to act as photo-ops and to pique visitors’ interest in the kingdom’s major cultural sites and time-honoured rituals.
Pedal-powered
The annual Inyatsi Swazi Frontier ‘hardcore’ mountain-biking (MTB) race each October is listed among the world’s 300 best cycling events: the stage-race for a maximum of 80 pairs is held over three days, and after setting off from the Hawane Resort covers 180 km of the kingdom’s spectacularly scenic and rugged northwest. Each edition attracts enthusiasts from across Southern Africa as well as from North Africa, the USA, UK and Europe.
Each year in June, Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary hosts a less arduous competition known as the Imvelo MTB Classic and which comprises a series of races over various distances, the longest being 64 km. The maximum 500 participants arrive from all over Southern Africa, and the event has since inception in 2004 received accolades for using sponsorship money and race-entry fees solely to fund community-development projects.
Other annual MTB events include the Ngwenya Glass MTB Challenge. Participants convene at the Ngwenya Glass Factory, from where they have three routes from which to choose, namely the 70km Marathon, 40km Classic and 27km Family Ride.
Competition aside, a mountain-bike is also a highly popular way by which to explore Eswatini’s wonderful landscapes. As with walking and trekking, the more adventurous visitor can set out across the country on their own, but there are also specific and much-frequented trails in a number of locations, including Mhlambanyatsi, Hawane, Hlane, Malolotja, Mbuluzi and Shewula. At Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, a well-patronised Cycling Safari enables the whole family to encounter the animal inhabitants while riding around the grounds at their own leisure.
THE WINNERS
The Royal Villas is a multi-consecutive ‘Leading Hotel in the Kingdom of Eswatini’ category-winner at the annual World Travel Awards Africa. The victorious General Manager, Karol Joszkowski, declared the most recent win “a huge achievement for The Royal Villas, and it once again also puts the country on the map”. He spoke of the award as the equivalent of an Oscar, and as such should be celebrated by Emaswati: “This is big, especially because it’s the travel sector across the continent that nominates. What that means is that seasoned travellers are aware of our services, while the accolade will also attract first-time tourists…the award is coveted, prestigious and means a lot to us.”
Also present at the gala presentation ceremony were Eswatini’s Minister of Tourism and Environmental Affairs, and the official representative of shareholder Tibiyo Taka Ngwane, both of whom said that they were extremely proud of the hotel. The latter furthermore thanked the Minister for attending the event and thereby giving added weight to the award and the hotel’s well-deserved recognition. “As a shareholder, Tibiyo Taka Ngwane is very proud that The Royal Villas continues to do well, and also proud of its efforts to make the Kingdom of Eswatini’s Vision 2022 a reality,” he concluded.
The Royal Villas offers a choice of 14 “uncommonly spacious” villas, each of which has a King Suite, Queen Suite, Standard Queen and Standard Twin: two additionally include family rooms, and all are set in a lush estate with views of the Mdzimba Mountains. The Lihawu Restaurant offers exquisite pan-African cuisine, complemented by the Sivuno premier wine cellar. A swimming pool and hot Jacuzzi are served by a terrace bar, while guests also have a choice of fully equipped, well-appointed dining rooms, lounges and outdoor settings in which to relax. Mdzimba Conference and Entertainment Centre is state of the art, with everything expected of a five-star venue. The Royal Villas is conveniently close to a casino, golf course, shopping centre and craft market.
Amber Tipple
The kingdom’s Defiant rum (‘Gold’ variant) – produced by Jackalberry distillery – recently scooped top honours at an internationally-recognised tasting competition, namely the SA Rum Jury Annual Blind-Tasting and Industry Enrichment Conference. A panel comprising nine judges who are acknowledged experts in the field of rum, tastes and rates product originating from all over the world. The blind-tasting method “avoids any preconceived perceptions based on a known varietal or the label of the rum – it emphasises merit on taste alone”. Jackalberry is a small-batch distillery: it produces two other variants of Defiant rum – ‘Spiced’ and ‘Black’ – and uses only sugarcane and pure spring water from Eswatini, matured in French and American charred oak using both traditional and futuristic scientific techniques. The result of these three elements is according to Jackalberry a “truly singular, clean, vibrant, smooth, refined taste”.
Founder of the SA Rum Jury, Andy Kiloh, asserted that the competition was respected, and its Gold Medal regarded as one of the most reliable indicators of excellence. He described winning a medal as “indeed an impressive achievement for any rum having undergone evaluation from our highly discerning judges. Emphasising integrity and impartiality, our competition takes great pride in ensuring that all entries are treated with care and consideration by our carefully selected panel. Products awarded a gold medal are exceptional, near the pinnacle of achievement in their particular category, the ones that set the standard for all others of their type”.
Jackalberry Marketing Manager, Seipati Jonga, said that the company – which also produces a brand of gin – was very proud to have won the award: “Defiant gold rum defies convention and makes any occasion an event to remember. The smooth, opulent, fragrant, wood-matured flavours sit side by side with the soft, golden sweetness. We make rum for non-rum drinkers, and this makes is difficult to enter a competition with judges who know so much about rum and have such high standards…we were surprised to win the top award. To have an unconventional rum that appeals to the traditionalists in the field is what really makes us proud, especially when being compared to much bigger and more established brands and products.”
The Minister of Tourism and Environmental Affairs said that Jackalberry’s achievement was welcome news for the kingdom, especially on the tourism side, as it meant that Eswatini was on the map and recognised in other countries: “This is fantastic, and we as a Ministry are excited because this is very good for Eswatini. We will go far in making our rum and gin part of our marketing tools to attract tourists to the country.”
SNAPSHOTS
• Ezulwini – ‘Place of Heaven’ – is both the valley that runs southeast between Mbabane and Manzini, and its rapidly developing town with bespoke residential area. This is where tourism in Eswatini began, and today its attractions include hotels, casinos, shopping malls, restaurants, art galleries, cinema, craft markets, hot springs, riding stables, nature reserve, golf course and cultural village. Under construction is an International Convention Centre with adjacent Five-Star Hotel.
• Pigg’s Peak, with its reminders of the kingdom’s Colonial-era gold rush, is currently witnessing a resurgence of interest in its remaining deposits. The town’s name derives from that of a French prospector, William Pigg, whose ‘peak’ refers to the summit of Eswatini’s tallest mountain, the nearby Emlembe. In the immediately surrounding hills are Stone Age caves, complete with well preserved Bushman paintings.
• Bulembu, 18 km west of Pigg’s Peak, was in 2001 almost emptied by the closure of Havelock Mine – the settlement’s original name – but has in recent years been brought back to life by Bulembu Ministries. The village nestles at the foot of Emlembe mountain and is surrounded by lush green hills and eucalyptus forests.
Bulembu Country Lodge comprises painstakingly renovated period houses that present a mix of history and nature, beauty and comfort. Visitors have the opportunity to hike to Emlembe’s summit, take less arduous guided walks and museum visits, observe Bulembu’s community enterprises in action and even volunteer for its community care initiative centred around hundreds of orphans and vulnerable children.
• Phophonyane Nature Reserve is part of a 600 ha conservancy in the mountainous northwest and falls within the Barberton Centre of Endemism, which is an area of global biodiversity-significance. Its central feature is the Phophonyane Falls, a series of cascades and waterfalls that stretches for three kilometres along the boundary between two continental blocks of the Earth’s crust. Definitive geological finds have been made there. Other main features include granite cliffs and the Mbevane Falls and stream which are flanked by a riverine forest in which eight orchid species have been identified. In the reserve as a whole, more than 400 species of trees and 250 species of birds are to be found, along with numerous species of mammals and reptiles. A network of well-maintained trails leads to spectacular vantage points offering vistas that sweep to the Gobolondo and Makhonjwa mountain ranges.
• Hawane Nature Reserve lies between the southern sector of Malolotsha Game Park and the city of Mbabane, which is supplied with water from a dam within the reserve. The relatively small area includes part of the habitat of Eswatini’s endemic and rare ‘red-hot poker’ succulent plant.
• Ngwempisi Gorge cuts through the southern region’s scenic drive area in the vicinity of Shiselweni. Accommodation choices amid the tall cliffs and deep gorges, cool rivers and hot springs include a fitted-out cave.
EYE-OPENING
Community-based tourism helps rural folk participate in and benefit from the sector. It is today a very popular means of experiencing Emaswati’s renowned hospitality and seeing the country’s picturesque mountains, hills, valleys and plains from the perspective of traditional day-to-day life. Thanks largely to seed-funding by the European Commission, many rural and peri-urban entrepreneurs offer guided tours and homestays that adhere to set standards while opening up for visitors’ enjoyment the ‘secret’ treasures of Eswatini’s lesser-trod pathways.
• Luphohlo Recreational Park near Mbabane is a Siphocosini Community Venture and the country’s latest such initiative. Named after its focal-point dam, the park is ideal for fishing, swimming and scenic walks: ‘sitting-bays’ and ablution facilities have been built.
• All Out Africa Walking Tour: This half-day excursion begins with an introduction to Swati history at the National Museum, passes through one of the oldest and most famous villages in Eswatini – the Royal Residence – before exploring homes, small-scale ethnic businesses, an art gallery and concluding with a traditional Swati barbeque. The tour is led by an experienced local guide steeped in indigenous folklore.
• Sibebe Rock is the world’s largest exposed granite dome – often compared to Australia’s Uluru (Ayers Rock) – and offers a breath-taking experience to those who venture along its trails which are regarded as among Eswatini’s most interesting. Walking tours are run by the local community and much of the vast array of wildlife to be seen is unique to the area.
• Mahamba Gorge Lodge: Perched on the edge of the Mkhondvo River gorge and offering a panoramic vista, the venue has strong links to the community: these include traditional Swati breakfast prepared by a local chef and a selection of local crafts that specialise in handmade models of structures such as the area’s historic church and traditional beehive huts.
• Nsangwini Rock Art Centre is situated high above the Komati River and is the best-preserved local site of rock-art produced by the San people over 4 000 years ago. All profits are reinvested in community projects.
• Lonhlupheko Craft Market is one of the jewels in the crown of Siteki and where vendors compete good-naturedly in what has become a flagship project for joint community entrepreneurship. Lonhlupheko is also known as one of the best places to learn about Swati culture, direct from the local community.
• Shewula Mountain Camp is a successful community venture that offers the opportunity to stay among Swati people in hutted accommodation and experience local life and culture. Guests are encouraged to explore the surroundings with local guides.
• Maguga Craft Outlet and Viewsite overlook the majestic Maguga Dam which is among the continent’s highest. At the Craft Outlet, talented community members can be seen at work and their unique mementos purchased at reasonable prices.
• Maguga Lodge Hiking Trails give visitors the opportunity to see some of the country’s most fascinating and beautiful destinations, be fully immersed in Swati culture, and witness evidence of its awe-inspiring history. All three routes use local guides, and profits are invested back into the community.
• Ngwempisi Hiking Trail/Khelekhele Horse Trail: The 33-km Ngwempisi Trail delivers vistas of plateaux, woodlands, riverine forest and mountainous terrain, along with an opportunity to see many birds, interesting flora and fascinating geology. Khelekhele Horse Trail offers the opportunity to explore the area on horseback: both projects are run by the local community as part of the ETA initiative to ensure that tourism benefits all sectors.